This week saw the eagerly anticipated return of the Great British Bake Off, now in its fourth series. I love that programme, a bunch of home bakers working their way through a number of challenges, some triumphing and others ending up with egg on their faces. The tension is incredible when their cakes go into the oven, will it rise, won’t it? They are often on their knees watching through the glass oven door. The judges are firm but fair, none of this nasty sarcasm and the presenters add a much-needed touch of humour to the proceedings.
No fancy plates full of minuscule meals, just good robust baking.
I almost felt tempted to apply myself.
However, after watching this time, I couldn’t help but be disappointed. The format was the same, so were the presenters and then there were the judges. With all the recent scandal in the papers surrounding one of them, it was difficult to take him seriously. But worse, the bakers themselves were no longer the dedicated home dabblers that I’ve come to know and love, they seemed like a bunch of semi-pros.
The first challenge was a simple sandwich cake, any flavour. One person attempted, unsuccessfully to carve his cake into the shape of a lemon and another baked hers in a sandwich shaped mould and wrapped it in a sheet of fondant icing to resemble a paper bag.
What happened to the simple sandwich cake?
The technical challenge was as good as ever. They couldn’t do anything lavish, just follow the recipe for an angel food cake. It’s amazing how many variations you can get from the same sheet of paper.
Then finally there was the fancy chocolate cake. Most of them were well over the top with hidden squirrels inside the sponge, bears made out of modelling chocolate (who even knew that existed) and elaborate chocolate collars around the cake.
Some looked very professional, others were just a mess.
Personally I’m not a fan of all this over the top icing and decoration, it makes them difficult to eat, which after all, is the point of a cake. I think they just need to be pleasing to the eye, but more importantly, taste good.
I shall be watching the rest of the series, couldn’t miss it, but after that show-stopping start, it makes you wonder where it can go from here.
Bring back simple home baking, please!
After watching the show I just had to bake a sandwich cake and lately I’ve been very impressed with the recipes of Dan Lepard in the Guardian. Years ago I bought my first ever bread book written by him, The Handmade Loaf. Not only does he create brilliant bread, but his other concoctions are fabulous too.
This recipe for a Victoria sandwich is based on his, although the quantities are more what you would expect in a typical sponge cake. What is unique, is that it uses a rather diverse method, beating some of the flour in with the butter, before adding the eggs. It certainly makes a difference to the sponge and it is quite literally the best sandwich cake I have ever made or tasted.
I think Dan may be Mary and Paul all rolled into one.
Simple sandwich cake
- 225g butter, softened
- 225g vanilla caster sugar
- Zest of a lemon, finely grated
- 225g self-raising flour
- 4 medium eggs
- 2 tsp baking powder
- 1 tsp vanilla paste
- Jam and mascarpone or cream
- Icing sugar for decoration
- Grease and line the base of two 20cm cake tins with greaseproof paper.
- Beat the softened butter in a food mixer until pale, light and fluffy.
- Add the sugar, lemon zest, and vanilla paste, then beat well until pale and fluffy.
- Beat in a third of the flour and baking powder until smooth, then beat in the eggs, one at a time.
- Add in the remaining flour and baking powder and ensure it’s well combined.
- Divide the mixture between the two tins and bake at 170C for about 35‑40 minutes until a skewer inserted in the centre comes out clean and the sponges are just starting to come away from the edge of the tins.
- Leave to cool in the tins for 10 mins then turn out onto a cooling rack.
- Remove the paper from the bottoms.
- When cold, fill with jam and/or cream and assemble the sandwich.
- Dust with icing sugar to serve.